Opus Relinque

Cotton Base-Cape

Discipulus — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 19:48:11 +0000

Having discerned some minor adjustments in fit by testing its patterns in a cotton mock-up, the cape’s base is again applied to mark ideal seam positions in correspondence with the plan of integrated trim-lines by pin pointing the optimal esthetic correlations, replacing seams in accordance with concording undergarments.

The Decahat

Discipulus — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 20:15:59 +0000

Showcasing the newly finished diamond-cut tophat that is an architectural layering of the the decagon shape construed in short-pile pelt and satin lining, profoundly exploiting the 10-face-based polyhedral shape which, through its repetition, bestowed the elevated endeavor with distinct outlooks for front and side-ways views.

Proceedings:

Design - Structure - Materialization - Consolidation - (Modelled)

Impressionnant Retake

Discipulus — Sat, 17 Mar 2012 11:46:32 +0000

Instating a new approach on the Cathedral Cape concept through this delineation on how contrasting-colored tape is going to be incorporated within the seam-lines, directly dividing fabric pieces in straightforward Art-Deco figures, highlighting the extra-ordinary structure of this new cape, starting from the pre-proven collar, over to the shoulders and inset godet windows, down to the all-around trailing hemline, bringing both unused techniques and materials into what will be one of my greater 2012 endeavors.

Initialization

Discipulus — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 19:59:41 +0000

On controlling this delicate fabric for faults I noticed a series of hard folds, pressed deep into the fabric structure from the less than careful way it had been spinned onto its roll, causing false pleats which are better avoided, diminutive as they may seem, as the error inflicted when copying patterns on top of them would be especially bothersome because the impact would differ between the left and right halves of the coupe; a due to strict material usage non-omittable premise, luckily well-correctable through exhaustive steam-pressing upto almost no visibility, re-setting a tranquil outlook to this earliest of producing stages.

Different Landings

Discipulus — Thu, 15 Mar 2012 19:15:57 +0000

Two converse approaches in creating a pleated collar that covers the greater part of the shoulders; the first method succeeding by pleating shoulders and collar separately, leaving just one seam to sew, may it be an incredibly difficult one to perfect; and the other solution consisting of individually tailored collar-incorporating pieces providing a far more esthetically unbreached result, while requiring enormous travail to accomplish.

Base Lighting

Discipulus — Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:38:42 +0000

Setting up the newly purchased set of bronze up-shiners, providing the home-base with strong, yet diffused lighting -ideal for working day or night- which can easily be dimmed down to uphold a homey atmosphere.

Through a Stretch

Discipulus — Tue, 13 Mar 2012 19:29:59 +0000

Combining sequential polling with interpolation methods for copying and horizontally stretching previously drawn patterns to 2.4 times their original size; gathering sufficient girth in order to incorporate in-stitched ruffles all throughout the blouse’s body and sleeves, bringing it’s dimensions back to the original pattern.

Blouson Rouge

Discipulus — Sun, 11 Mar 2012 19:37:54 +0000

A raglan-cut stretchy longsleeve bolstering rising seams that are worked in to its carmine velveteen, adding tailoring while including a ruffle-tape trim, accentuating the formed shapes, mimicking those of the Red Shirt.

Proceedings:

Design – Textile – Patterns – Methodism – Trim – Revision – Finishing

Multifarious Grain

Discipulus — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 19:12:30 +0000

In striving to make every garment a unique conception, I aim to never use the same fabric twice, meaning that to this point each of the crêpe-satins making up my shirts were commissioned from different suppliers in order to instantly bestow each design with a certain individuality, not just in color, but also in granularity, compound, weight, drop and texture; each and all significant factors that establish the eventuall outcome.

Two shirts; Two Patterns

Discipulus — Thu, 08 Mar 2012 19:22:26 +0000

Even though they follow the same body-measurements, the base patterns for these two secondary blouses are individually drawn as they immediately need to account for the small details in coupe that make up great differences in fit and shape; having one of these blouses being tightly tailored and the other wide in flow as two back-to-back productions I am now allowing myself to fully extrapolate on which details make up a look.